Arriving at the island of Moorea, whether by air or by sea, is a magical experience. From a distance, the peaks of Mount Rotui and Belvedere beckon, their ridges coiled like an animal at rest around turquoise lagoons. It is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. As you approach, the mountains appear in more detail, usually wreathed in fog. Little boats dance around the bays, coasting on breathtaking waters. When the sun is out, it certainly looks like paradise.